Pieces of 0.9mm carbon plate - total weight 2gr. My first RDS installation used thin countertop material. But it developed quite a big slop in just one year, so I wanted something stiffer and decided to go with carbon plates this time.
Big piece of carbon plate for RDS pockets. It is actually very shiny and smooth.
Top side of the carbon plate - three layers of unidirectional carbon cloth in one direction and three in other direction - alternating. Makes very rigid plate. Tape makes the handling and cutting easy. Cured under full vacum on polypropylene sheet (very shiny and requires no wax). Nylon cloth was used as peel ply - on top of the nylon were many layers of toilet paper to absorb the extra resin. I used very slow hardener and heated the layup at the beginning of the curing (put a pot with hot water on top of the bag), to make the resin very thin and get most of it out.
Pieces of the RDS. Carbon plates, 2mm pine sticks and 2mm stainless steel rods. The rods are made for knitting, they are sold in packs of 5 at various diameters.
Pockets glued using thin CA. I glued sides first, with rods inside to make sure that I have exactly right cleareance. Then added back wall.
Kevlar wraps around edges in order to avoid splitting of the box. Attaching the kevlar using CA is bad idea as it leaves very thick and heavy layer of kevlar. I sanded most of it off and added new wrap using epoxy resin.
RDS hole drilling jig. The vetenary syringe needle has outer diameter 2mm. Foam scraps are from the wing beds. Attached using double sided tape.
RDS shaft bending jig. You want to get very sharp bend and avoid damaging the wiper that is moving in the pocket. This jig helps to achieve it. I drilled 2mm hole that had exactly right depth and then inserted the rod into the hole. Hammered very close to the bending point. The hole edge was stretched - one hole is good for maximum four rods.
Complete pockets after adding the balsa and sanding to shape. I sanded the trailing edge of the carbon too - 2m + 2*0.9mm was too thick for SuperGee II wing. Final weight was 3gr. Mark's original pockets were 1gr.
Another view to pockets
Just to show how far the wiper goes into the pocket before the bend starts. The fit of the wiper in pocket is very tight.
Another view
Another view, camera moved little bit. I used 2mm stainless steel rod - final weight for the rods was 2.7gr. Mark's carbon shafts + 1.5 mm SS wipers were 1.9gr. But mine were much simpler to make. And I did not have the small diameter carbon sock in the first place :)
Yoke jig. Two small aluminium plates with three holes in each. Center hole is 2mm and it takes waxed SS rod that holds the jig in place. Two 1mm holes for pins. Pins are made from small nails that are sanded down to exactly right diameter for Dymond D60 horn holes in drill. Aluminium plate and center pin are waxed three times using Norpol W70. The bottom parts of the yoke pins that are inside the aluminium block are waxed too (just pushed them into candle). Over the center pin is small piece of SS tube with 2mm inner diameter. Shaft goes into this later. The tube is from even bigger syringe needle :) I wrap a yoke using single tow from uni carbon cloth. Tow is wetted first. Wrapping is very easy because the jig can rotate around the center pin. Just do not apply too much tension when wrapping! When you remove the yoke from jig the pins may wrap little bit. I wrap first around the pins (like shape of eight) and then around. the pins. Couple of drops of resin to fill the voids. Final weight was 0.7gr.
In the wing. Balsa plates under the servos are visible. I rise the servo so that it is flat with the bottom of the wing. Balsa plate has varying thickness - it is very thin at the trailing edge and 2mm at the front.
Servos are mounted using low-temp hot-melt glue. Just add small dab and run your finger in nitril glove over it to press it down. 6-7 dabs are sufficient. Cut the extra glue using razor blade.
Clear tape over the servo. This one is actually bad. I did not test the servos before putting them into wing and one had bad potentiometer. Had to cut it off before first flight and replace with one from last years wing. It is amazing how much slop develops in the geartrain of D-60 during one season. Fortunately I had one set of replacement gears.
Exit of the shaft. According to Harley's comments RDS needs vertical movement at the hingeline, but there must be no horizontal movements. I made two small ply pieces with tilted holes in them and enlarged the holes vertically so that shaft could freely move up and down but not sideways. The installation has no slop.
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